Monday, 6 January 2014

Arrival in Buenos Aires and first few days - Jan 1 to 3


We had a very comfortable flight and were surprisingly impressed with Iberia and the quality of their seats.  Jemima was totally thrilled when she discovered all of the things that her seat could do and the amount of entertainment on her TV system.  She was even more thrilled when she got GIVEN a bag full of "toiletries"- endless play-time!
After a 12.5 hour flight, we touched down at 8:30pm, were met in baggage reclaim and taken to our delightful hotel - Hotel Pelermo - in, surprise surprise, the Palermo Soho district of Buenos Aires.  Our first night was interrupted with the first rain in a month and the most almighty thunder storm.  Torrential rain and thunder continued throughout the morning, but cleared up in the early afternoon. 

Palermo is a really delightful district of BA.  With low-rise buildings and numerous tree-lined cobbled streets, the area is full of trendy bars, wonderful restaurants and great little boutique shops.  We met one of our travel organisers, Hero Dalrymple on the first morning, who was delightful.  She gave us a great briefing on things to do and places to see, and joined us for lunch.  She also changed some dollars into Pesos for us.  (Argentina has a 2-tier currency structure - the official Government rate is about 6 Pesos / $ - the rate you get at a bank, and then there is the rate that all domestic businesses trade at - 9.3 Pesos / $.  It is sooo worthwhile loading up with Greenbacks before coming here!)

We all went to the most delightful little cafe for a coffee - pictured below - 



then toured Palermo before meeting Hero for lunch  - seen in picture below.

Hero Dalrymple, James, Jemima & Philippa at Social Paraiso


This was followed by a visit to the Evita museum - a bit disappointing as very spanish presentation, and told an entirely one-sided story - the positive one!  That night, we left Jemima with Hero in her apartment, whilst Pip and I went out for dinner.  We didn't last long.

Yesterday (3rd) we first spent an hour queueing for tickets for the bus tour of BA, only to then be told that we wouldn't be able to board a bus for 2 hours. We fill in by a visit to the capital's main cemetery where Eva Peron is buried - what a sight!  It is not that the the cemetery is huge (which it is not), it is just seeing so many magnificent mausoleums crammed in to such a space.  All of the past great and the good of Argentina seem to now have permanent residence here!

Here is a view down one of the "streets" in the cemetery.

Evita's tomb was nothing like as prominent as we thought it would be for one who lived such a short, but high profile life and was so loved by the people.  She is interred in the Duarte (family) tomb (see photo) which is almost on the outskirts of the cemetery.


     
  
Following this we eventually made our bus trip (after a little shopping).  It should have been so much better than it was, but it was still worth while - particularly driving through areas of La Boca - a part of town not recommended to be investigated on foot for fear of mugging.  It has a real vibrance to it, characterised by the local people's passion for football and graffiti.




On our return, we did a quick turnaround prior to going to THE MOST amazing steakhouse.  If you are ever visiting, check out Don Julio (Guatemala 4691) and if you like your steak medium rare, ask for it medium for fear of being stampeded.  The most memorable part of the evening was when James engaged a Swedish couple on the table next door, was told that they were staying for a week in BA and then going (as James heard it - and bearing in mind that his hearing isn't great) for a wake in Uruguay.  "so who has died"  he asked......Philippa couldn't stop laughing for half an hour!  The evening was topped off with the most delicious ice-cream on the way home (thanks to a recommendation from Jemima who had been there the previous night).  Thats all for now.  We leave BA today for an 11 hour bus ride to Cordoba.

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