Friday, 14 February 2014

Mallin Colorado, Northern Patagonia - 10 Feb to 14 Feb


This latest blog is being written from the aircraft on our way back to Santiago - the previous one having only been sent this morning due to technical hitches at the lodge...

10th Feb - still with the Arbuthnott party, we had an early start, but only had to walk 100 yards to the check-in desk from the hotel reception.   We were flying to Balmaceda in Northern Patagonia.  The road transfer from Balmaceda airport to Mallin Colorado was a gruelling  4 and a bit hours, over 3 of which were on bumpy track.  

Mallin Colorado is an up-market Eco Lodge on the edge of lake General Carrera.  The lake is huge, with 973 sq km of it in Chilean territory, its easterly end being in Argentina (where it is called Lago Buenos Aires).
Lake General Carrera

The scenery is to die for: alpine snow-capped, and often glacier-bearing mountains, interspersed with glacial lakes and rivers.  The colour of the water is a totally improbable, piercing blue -  as if it has been altered in the editing of a photograph.


We are accommodated in wood cabins, most of which have spectacular views of the lake and surrounding countryside through floor-to-ceiling windows.  Luckily ours was one such. 
our home for 4 nights


Pip, Jemima and I were sharing with 2 delightful woman: Sara and Clare.  We are part of a 10 person group (3 are men) 4 of whom have unfortunately been widowed over the years, but all of whom have a wonderful perspective and outlook on life, not to mention a sharp wit.
The gang
Liz, Marina, Hughie, Sarah, Clare, Jemima, Philippa, James, Robert and Pamela

On one day we did a hefty 3.5 hour walk to a spectacular viewing point (Jemima rode!).....
Viewpoint from top of walk.
.....on another, a ride up the same track.
Yes - more horses

The Marble Cathedral

More marble

We also took a boat (or two) to view the Marble Cathedral, a couple of huge lumps of marble which, millions of years ago split from the marble cliffs above, fell into the lake, to then be eroded by the elements, creating wonderful caves with amazing shapes and colours.


The highlight for me however, was visiting the confluence of the Baker river, (the only exit from lake General Carrera) with another, somewhat dirtier river.  This provided numerous Kodak moments.  The Baker river is the fastest flowing in Chile and it's force was impressive.
Confluence of the Baker River and one other

Overall, we had a lovely time at Mallin Colorado. We were also blessed with good weather, since the previous week had been more like the UK's.  The staff were delightful, and given the remote location, the food not bad.  

This part of our trip is now ending and tonight over a slap up dinner in Santiago we will be saying goodbye to the group.  Thank you Hughie Arbuthnott for looking after us all so well.  And thank you Liz, Marina, Clare, Sarah, Pamela and Robert for being such good company and for being so accepting of Jemima.  We fly early tomorrow to Punta Arenas where we have a 5 hour transfer to the Awasi Patagonia...Ugh.  Time to look at a movie me thinks!

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