When we left Pampa Grande, it was just like England, pouring down – don’t all laugh. After an uneventful 3 hour drive, we arrived in Salta city where our driver, Santiago gave us a fascinating tour of the Museum of the MAAM, which talks about the Inca colonisation of Northern Argentina, and specifically about the ritual sacrifices of young children. At the end of the tour, we even saw the mummified body of one such child. A boy of 7.
We left Salta late, having been distracted by the shopping
opportunities (James bought a fabulous pair of leather boots for a short
hundred quid, and we both bought bombachas
- Argentinian riding trousers - in which we think we look incredibly
cool!), and arrived at Tilcara after dark.
Tilcara is one of the principal towns in the Humahuaca gorge, declared a
World Heritage site a few years ago and now an extremely trendy place to
visit. We arrived mid a music festival
and the place was teaming with young backpackers of all descriptions. This for young Argentinians is the equivalent
of the full moon parties in Thailand for Europeans. There is an incredibly friendly atmosphere
here, and the place feels very safe.
We are living in a beautiful cottage, which could easily
have been transposed from Provence. The
house is built of stone, around a courtyard with bedrooms on two sides. All the rooms have the ubiquitous bamboo
ceiling in between the beams, which we find highly attractive. It belongs to an Argentinian lawyer and his
wife, and is full of their personal possessions.
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| Our house in Tilcara |
Last night we decided to stay in and cook our own
supper. It was so nice – Jemima lit
every candle in the place, and while supper was bubbling away we played several
hands of rummy while putting away rather a lot of wine. (Rummy is becoming a bit of a craze on this
trip, although we are planning an upgrade to Canasta shortly!)
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| Dinner at home |
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| The chef! |
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| home-sweet-home |
Tilcara is set in the most outstanding landscape, which is
the reason for the valley being a world heritage site. Rather than try and describe it, just look at
the photos.
We have done a day trip to Purmamarca, a touristy town 25 km
south, which was only really worth the ride for the scenery, as the town was
rather grotty. The scenery is OUTSTANDING! |
| P & J around Purmamarca |
On the way, we were
stopped at one of the many police check points and asked for our driving
licence, which of course we didn’t have on us.
We were then informed that he had no alternative but to fine us, and
that we would have to report to the police station in Jujuy (pronounced Huhui) which
is a one hour south). Philippa, whose
Spanish suddenly improved dramatically, managed to plead our case and
miraculously after a 20 minute argument, when she felt she was getting nowhere,
he suddenly allowed us to return home and get it. Phew.
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| Market in Purmamarca |
Our life here has been much more akin to a normal life. We have discovered some great bohemian restaurants, and where you can eat damn well for a tenner a head inc some very decent red wine. Difficult not to go overboard. Having no WiFi in
the house, we have got to know a number of charming café’s (often also bookshop/music shop, which makes for a University type environment) where they seem to
be happy to let us sit for hours on our computer for the cost of a
coffee.
On Wednesday we were due to drive North, crossing the tropic
of Capricorn to Humahuaca. The
weather however has been really wet for the last 24 hours and as a result we
have stayed town bound, and have visited the local archaeological Pucara
(fortified hill village) passing a llama farm on the way. A highly entertaining situation developed
when we approached a solitary Guanaco (member of the llama family). This creature looked like something out of a
Disney cartoon, with her wonderful doey eyes and eminently kissable lips.
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| Call me bambi - Offending Guanaco |
As Pip stood looking at her about a metre away from the wire
netting, admiring her fabulous coat, the animal ambled towards her, put her muzzle
to the netting, pursed her lips as if about to blow a kiss, and promptly
covered Pip in spittle. It was like
being shot by a well directed water pistol, such was the power and accuracy of
aim. Once again huge amount of laughter
all round.
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| Ready to 'fire' |
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| Typical stack of carpets tone found in all markets |
We have had a lovely time tootling around the local market
here, picking up stuff – all irresistibly cheap , and of course we have had to
buy a large carpet bag to contain it all as our suitcases were already filled
to capacity.….
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| Pip negotiating on hide |
Finally set off for Humahuaca the following day, but got seduced by a roadside artisanal shop selling by far the best quality stuff we have yet found (most of the markets are stuffed with cheap tat imported from Peru). Spectacular cow hides, proper alpaca shawls etc. Pip in heaven, but having fallen for the largest cow hide in the store, substantially more baggage to pack – we are seriously considering DHLing a large parcel back to UK since Aerolinas
Argentina will now charge serious excess baggage penalties on each flight!
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| The Gaucho procession |
On our way, we also passed a spectacular procession of Gauchos on their way to some formal gathering - it was a wonderful sight.
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| At the Tropic of Capricorn - 20 degrees south |
Did the customary pose at the Tropic of Capricorn ....
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| P & J in Humahuaca |
......and spent
a delightful couple of hours in Humahuaca – certainly worth the visit.
Finally returned to base camp and packed
for the long journey from Tilcara to Saint Pedro de Atacama – 400KM across the
Andes.
At this stage in our journey (and we are now one third of the way through), We have to say a BIG thank you to Harry Hastings and his team at Plan South America, for so far having judged our needs and matched them to the places we have stayed, BRILLIANTLY! Thank you Harry, Cecile and Hero!
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