Aguas Arriba Feb 24 - Mar 1

We drove for 3 hours directly from the Perito Moreno glacier, back through Calefate and on to El Chalten, a small town in the shadow of Mount Fitzroy and a hikers/climbers paradise. 

Approach to El Chalten - Mount Fitzroy to right of centre

The next 35km was along a dusty trail to the head of Lake Desierto, where we met a boat and travelled 4km down-lake to our lodge.  En route we saw a Puma crossing the road, not more than 75 meters in front of us – a rare sight indeed (but no picture – bummer!)

We arrived at the pier to be greeted by Ivor, the owner – a charming and civilised man of about 65 who, having worked in the oil industry in Buenos Aires for 30 years, took early retirement in about 2003.  He had bought this plot of land the year before, and decided that he wanted to build a lakeside eco-lodge/hotel;  the result, after an 5 year build, is Aguas Arriba (AA).  Every plank, pipe, bag of cement, joist, pane of glass etc had to be taken down the lake by boat since there is no road – only a very hilly and irregular footpath.  Some undertaking! (Ivor - please forgive me if I have the dates wrong!)

Aguas Arriba

AA is an incredibly relaxing and beautiful place, allowing 5 couples to stay at any one time.  Children are not normally allowed!  All of the guest administration is done by Ivor’s lovely wife, Pato and together they make a good team.  They are firmly backed up by a great staff, one of whom deserves special mention: the lovely Florencia, who looked after

Florencia

our every need and was especially good with Jemima.  A History graduate from Buenos Aires, she has a wonderful way with people and will go far.

Dining room overlooking lake and glaciers

Pato

Ivor

The hiking is out of this world and the views to die for.  Sitting down for dinner and looking out over glaciers is pretty cool, as is the view down the lake to Mount Fitzroy.  This blog is, as a result, going to be more about pictures than words...

View of Mount Fitzroy late afternoon - from the lodge

Our guide on a couple of occasions was the extremely talented Juliana, who always made our walks entertaining.  Not only her knowledge, but also her sharp wit made the walks pass all too swiftly.  

Glacier walk with Juliana

Glacier walk with Juliana

After the glacier, we made our way back to the lake via this bridge...

....And started back to the lodge around the lake...

...and more wonderful views

...and encountered waterfalls

...yes, it's happened.  Pip's started hugging trees

She also managed to instil in Jemima a feel for the countryside and how important it is to protect it.  She walked with a rubbish sack and was always picking up other people’s detritus.

The lovely Juliana with Jemima

Other than hiking, I also went fly-fishing for an hour or two.  Ivor was happy to lend me a rod and all of the kit – and I loved it, although caught nothing.  This has to be one of the most picturesque and secluded/exclusive places in which to fish;  I had all 12 km of lake to myself!  Certainly a sport to be undertaken when back in the UK.

View from end of lake Desierto towards Mount Fitzroy

Another wonderful view

Picnic at midway point with our British friends

We also encountered 4 stimulating and fun Brits, who arrived for our last 2 days:  Nolan and Amanda  Carter, and Tim and Tessa Vernon.  We all walked together on our last dayand had dinner together that night.  It was great to have some company other than our own for a change!





On the final morning, I had to photograph Fitzroy just one more time, since it was just past sun-up and the photo opportunity was too good to miss!

Fitzroy at dawn

Goodbye Pato and Ivor.  We think you have created a small paradise in this inaccessible part of Patagonia.  Amazing achievement.

Next stop, Bariloche – but only for 2 days before heading for San Martin de los Andes.