Peuma Hue - March 8 to 14

Gabriel, our driver, eventually turned up and took us the 30-odd km to the estancia.  Peuma Hue is a small but beautiful ranch at the South end of Lake Gutierrez.  The view down the lake is stunning, with the majestic Mount Catedral rising on the west side and extending all the way to Bariloche.  At its Northern end is the ski resort of the same name – so you already have an idea of the type of scenery.

Peuma Hue in clump of trees at right of lake

The activities at Peuma Hue are fairly limited, but it is a great place to relax.  I say limited, because there are only a few trail rides and not much accessible flat land; there is immediate access to a few hikes (but you tend to end up on the same trails as the horse rides) and then there is kayaking on the lake.  Having said this one of the trail rides was ‘for expert riders only’ and that was fun.  

Preparing for a dousing

Jemima getting her first shower of the week!

The highlight however had to be cantering on the shore of and in the lake.

The Gallops

Philippa desperately trying to get her horse more into the
water (she succeeded)

And the two hikes we did were a pretty good work out with some interesting views.  One such view is that of a massive rock-fall that occurred 7 years ago, which literally cut a swath through the woods demolishing all in its path for several hundred meters.

We opted to go fly-fishing one afternoon and were picked up by the highly affable Eduardo, who drove us 45 minutes to a stretch of the Rio Limay.  The Limay (which means ‘clear’) is the principal river exiting the vast Lake Nahuel Huapi, on whose shores San Carlos de Bariloche is situated.  In the midst of what the locals call The Pategonian Steppe (semi desert-like scenery) it is THE most beautiful stretch of water I have seen in a long time.  The trouble is that there are so many beautiful sights here, that one is in danger of overusing superlatives – for which I make no apology.

Rio Limay

We drifted down 8 kilometers of the river, Philippa beating me 3-1 on the catch-and-release stakes.  Just before we reached the end we were treated to tea ‘Argentine style’, on the banks.  It was a very memorable afternoon – especially the sight and sound of Philippa freaking at having to touch a live fish (she was wading not floating at the time, and Edouardo was away on the bank preparing our tea!).  To hear her, anyone would think she was about to undergo horrendous torture!

Here's one..

...And another

Time for tea!

The ranch consists of the main house (very Montana style) with a few surrounding cabins.  We were lucky enough to be upgraded to the master suite in the main house, which was wonderful, spacious and with a lovely view down to the lake.  

Thats our room - Centre right, first floor

The sitting cum dining room

The lovely Martina, who looked after us so well

The birdlife around the ranch was lively and plentiful..

Jemima trying to get the birds airborne so I could snap them

Green Parrots

Success

Ibis's preening

More green parrots

 ... and we were constantly surrounded by dogs and cats – one of which had a litter living in the bushes below one of the drawing room windows.   

Kitty home

The horses are allowed to roam free in part of the ranch and are able to wander right up to some of the lodges, creating these lovely bucolic scenes.

Outside one of the lodges

Overall, we had a lovely and relaxing time at PH, ending as it did our time in Pategonia and indeed in Argentina.  We now fly to Uruguay for a week by the beach and then a further week on a ranch. Slightly disappointingly, we have been told that it is not likely to be ‘beach’ weather at this time of year – we had been hoping for time in the sun.  Let’s see…….